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How to Paint a Room in One Day

GOOD HOUSEKEEPING

BY  AND 

Does your space feel a little... drab? Switching up your wall color in a trendy shade is the one of the quickest ways to rehab a tired space. And since it's a project most homeowners can tackle themselves, it's one of the most affordable, too.


But as easy as painting sounds, there are some tricks to the trade. Take prep work, for example. If you skip this important step, you could end up with a real problem on your hands — an undercoat that shows through or peeling paint. If you’re painting latex over oil, for example, you’ll likely get cracking, says Rachel Rothman, chief technologist and director of engineering at the Good Housekeeping Institute. These types of mistakes not only take time to remedy, but can also cost a significant amount of money if you have to hire a professional to fix your errors.


Don't fret, though: As long as you're using the right supplies and have a handle on the basics, you'll be painting like a pro in no time at all. Here, we'll break it all down for you, covering everything from supplies, to necessary prep, to rolling evenly, and even cleaning your brushes so you can move on to the next project on your list. Follow these tips for professional-looking results:

1. Make a plan.

Before you ever pick up a paint brush, you need a plan of attack. Think of it sort of like cooking: You want to read the recipe all the way through before you start blindly throwing ingredients into the pot, otherwise, you might get halfway through and realize you're missing an important component.


Look up: Does the ceiling need a refresh, too? What about the trim? Consider your options on the walls as well. Will you be using one color — or do you want to try painting with two colors (an accent wall, perhaps)?

2. Select the perfect color.

When it comes to paint shades, the options are boundless. It's a fortunate problem: While you'll inevitably find just what your'e looking for, landing on the right hue can be quite the process. To guide your search, start by thinking about what you ultimately want. Do you envision a warm or a cool shade? Does your space warrant a bold color, or would a neutral be more appropriate? Once you have a general idea of the direction you want to go in, you can begin sifting through paint chips.


But don't rely on the little square to make a final decision: Once on the wall, paint can look very different than it does on the sample card! Colors often look brighter once on the wall, and the light in your room can have a dramatic impact on the way the color reads. Pick a few finalists, then purchase sample cans.

3. Paint a sample swatch.

Once you have sample cans in hand, paint swatches on the wall. To give you a good idea of how the color will look in your space, paint two coats of color in a 12-inch-by-12-inch square. If your room has both sunny and shady spots, it's smart to put swatches in both areas, as this can affect the final look.


Alternatively, you can paint two coats onto a foam board (available at any craft or office supply store) and tape it to the wall. This is a great option for those who don't intend to get started right away, as you won't have to live with random color streaks on your walls.


Pro tip: Use an inexpensive foam brush for this type of sample painting. This way, you won't dirty a ton of brushes or waste money.

4. Calculate how much paint you need.

When determining how much paint to buy, many retailers have helpful calculators you can use. Always double check packaging, but in general, a gallon is roughly good for 250 to 400 square feet, says Rothman. And don't forget: You'll need a little extra for touch-ups and mistakes.


5. Gather the right materials.


Though the surface and size of what your painting will directly influence the exact list of supplies you need, it's a good idea to stock your toolkit with some combination of the following items:

  • Painter's tape
  • Drop cloths
  • Paint brushes (both angled and straight)
  • Paint roller
  • Paint tray
  • Stir stick
  • Paint

Other worthy investments: An extension pole, so you can stash away the ladder after the edging step; a paint-can opener; and a pour spout to lessen mess.

6. Prep the room for painting.

  • First, dry-dust the walls floor to ceiling and scrub any extra-grimy parts with a wet sponge or cloth; paint won't adhere as well to a dirty surface (think fingerprints, soot, dust, cobwebs). Let dry before you paint.
  • Protect the floor and any furniture you can't (or don't want to) move, from paint splatters and spills. For the floor, choose fabric drop cloths instead of plastic ones, as plastic can be slick under your feet or, worse, the ladder.
  • Remove outlet and light switch plates and tape around any areas you don't want painted (such as moldings, baseboards, or window frames) with painter's masking tape or Frog Tape. The Good Housekeeping Institute tried the latter on a smooth wall and found that it makes a crisp line and doesn't let paint bleed through.

7. Prime the wall (or don't with our handy trick).

A bit of a hinderance when you're trying to paint a room in one day: Painting over a dark wall with a light color (or covering stains) requires a coat of primer and two coats of paint — and at least six hours of drying time. (If you’re in a super humid room or painting the exterior on a humid day it will take a much longer, notes Rothman.)


That's why GHI recommends Benjamin Moore Aura, a self-priming paint (it's a cost-effective option if you were planning on buying primer). Going from light to light? You can get away with two coats of good-quality regular paint.

8. Mix the paint.

Though the store generally shakes the paint for you, a decent stir will ensure your paint is properly mixed. This is particularly important if the can has been sitting on a shelf for any length of time. Though an optional step, you can also strain the paint, says Rothman. "It’s easier to get rid of impurities from the paint can, rather than having them on your wall and having to fix it later."

9. Get rolling!

Now you're ready for the main event. If you're painting a room with two colors — stripes, for example — start with the lighter color first, says Rothman. Once it’s dry, run painter’s tape over the divider, then paint the darker color.

If you're painting a room one color, here's how with a roller and a brush, according to the pros:

  • Use an angled brush or a sponge tool to "cut in," or paint a two-inch swath around the edges of woodwork and the ceiling. (Don't forget: These areas should be taped off, as explained in step five.)
  • Grab your paint tray and a roller. Use 1/4-inch nap for smooth surfaces, 3/8-inch nap for semi-smooth, or 5/8-inch nap for rough — the wrong tool will apply too much or too little paint. If using a latex paint, pre-wet the roller first, says Rothman.
  • Fill the well of the paint tray about ¼ of the way. Then, when loading the paint, roll the roller back and forth in the well until it is uniformly covered. Finally, move the roller back and forth in the upper portion to remove any excess.
  • Fill in the central unpainted space using the roller. Paint the wall in overlapping W- or M-shaped strokes for the most even paint distribution.
  • Let the first coat dry at least a couple of hours, then coat again. Between coats, cover the tray and brush with plastic wrap touching the paint surface, and refrigerate.
 Pro tip: Have a moist rag handy to wipe fresh splatters. Scrape off dried drips with a credit card or plastic spatula.

10. Finish and clean up.

  • Rinse your paintbrush and roller (if you don't toss it) under a faucet until the water runs clear.
  • Decant the tray's leftover paint back into the can; seal the can tightly by placing a paper towel over the lid and tapping the lid edges with a hammer. Rinse the tray.
  • Once the brush's bristles are totally dry, slip the brush back into its original paper wrapper to keep the bristles from fanning out, or try this DIY fix: Fold a thick piece of paper around the bristles; tape to secure.
  • Remove masking tape before you call it a night, pulling it off at a 45-degree angle to avoid tearing the finish.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.

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How to Redecorate Your Kids’ Rooms as They Grow


It’s easy to go overboard when decorating kids’ rooms. It’s so tempting to go all-in with a theme of trucks or unicorns or a much-loved superhero. But what happens when the child moves on to a new favorite? Here’s how to indulge your child’s intense, but changing, interests without breaking the budget.

Color Schemes

Start with a neutral color scheme with one or two accent colors that you and your child agree on. Neutral colors also work best when selling, meaning one less room to repaint for staging purposes.

Form a Base

With your color scheme settled and walls painted, shop with your child to choose a comforter and window treatments. This will form a solid foundation for your kid’s room. If chosen in a neutral palette, these items can work with many different accent colors or themes. Investing in the larger, more costly items – instead of changing them every time – will save you money in the long run.

How to Personalize a Kids’ Rooms

Use sheets, bed skirt, throw blankets, and pillows in bright, contrasting colors — or favorite characters — to coordinate with the comforter and curtains. Bedside tables and desks can be painted to match the accent colors.

Artwork

Framing and hanging your child’s artwork is a great way to show off his or her personality and achieve a customized look. For the frames, choose one style or finish for consistency, allowing the artwork to take center stage.

Splurges

For larger ticket items, such as lighting and rugs, shop around to get the best prices, and try to balance style with practicality. Choose a lighting fixture that will coordinate with different décor styles. For rugs, keep to your neutral theme but perhaps add a pattern for interest.

Helping with Organization

Children need systems to keep their toys, games, books, and other belongings neat and organized. Bookcases with colorful baskets or bins help with easy clean-up and provide another place for your child to have a say in color, pattern, and style. Replacing baskets with a different look is inexpensive.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.


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Five Makeovers For an Ugly Home Foundation


Does your otherwise attractive home have an unsightly foundation wall that spoils its curb appeal? Here are five ways to make that ugly wall disappear.


1. Paint it. Typically, the foundation wall has a thin veneer of concrete mortar spread over it similar to stucco, for a smoother cosmetic look. Choose a masonry paint that works with the color of your home’s siding and paint that concrete veneer. No one will be able to tell where the siding stops and the foundation begins.


2. Stucco it. If the foundation wall doesn’t have a cosmetic veneer, add a stucco concrete coating and then paint it to go with the color of the masonry or plank siding. 


3. Stone and brick veneer. This is perhaps the most handsome option of all. There are stone or brick veneer panels that attach with mortar to the foundation sides. You may not be able to precisely match your home’s existing stone siding, but you can come close. Once again, it will be difficult to tell where the siding ends and the foundation begins.


4. Lay down a rock or mulch bed.  If the foundation to be covered is no more than a couple of feet, consider turning over the soil in front, laying down a weed barrier, then placing a bedding of river rock or mulch. It is important that the ground and bedding slope down and away from the house so that water does not puddle against the foundation during heavy rain. Water should always flow away from the foundation.


5. Plantscaping. The simplest solution is to design and install a flowerbed containing gorgeous bushes and bedding plants. Choose bushes that will have thick foliage and grow to a height sufficient to cover the foundation. Place them the recommended distance apart so they will grow together for uniform coverage. Place blooming ground cover plants in front, adding color while filling in gaps at the bottom of the bushes.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.

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Hardwood Floor Options Offer Ageless Beauty
 

Hardwood floors have been installed in homes for centuries. No other floor has the enduring beauty and character of a fine hardwood floor. Today you have a variety of gorgeous hardwood floor options, including the latest fusion of classic woods with modern technology.

Pros and cons of hardwood floors

A beautiful wood floor brings warmth and coziness to a house. Hardwood floors are not perfect for every situation, however. Here are the strengths and weaknesses of wood floors.


On the positive side, hardwood floors are durable. The Janka Rating is a scientific measure of wood hardness. Hardwood floor options with a high Janka rating, such as oak, hickory or Brazilian species of walnut and cherry, are hard enough to withstand a lot of traffic and use. And when these woods finally appear worn, they can be sanded and refinished. Three-quarter-inch thick hardwoods can be refinished as many as seven times.


Hardwood floors are easy to maintain. Depending on how heavy the traffic is, sweep the floor once or twice per week and damp mop, preferably with a liquid cleaner made for hardwood floors.


Hardwood floors add value to a home. They never go out of style and are always in demand. You will see beautiful, original hardwood floors in century-old homes.


One drawback to hardwood floors is their price tag. This flooring can be expensive, particularly some of the tougher and more exotic hardwood floor options such as mahogany, Brazilian woods and bamboo (which is technically a grass). Hardwood floors can be noisy and lack the soft feel of carpet, though you can add area rugs where needed. And even the hardest woods can be scratched. Water can cause warping, so hardwood is not a good flooring choice in bathrooms, laundry rooms and basements.

Elements to consider in selection

The hardness of the wood species will determine how well the surface will hold up to wear and tear. Pine and Douglas fir, the softest woods, scratch and dent easily. Red oak and other oak species, which have a mid-grade Janka score, are the most commonly used hardwood floor options.


When it comes to staining hardwood, various colors offer advantages and disadvantages. Dark-stained floors offer a rich luster that contrasts beautifully with lighter cabinets and furniture, but they’ll show every footprint and speck of dust. Mid-level stains may lack the drama of darker colors but will rarely show dirt.


Hardwood floors come in different sheens, similar to paint choices. A high gloss finish shines beautifully, but every smudge or footprint will stand out. At the opposite end is the matte finish. Contrary to what you might expect, this finish can highlight footprints and skids rather than hide them. Semigloss and satin finishes offer the combination of an attractive look and a surface that doesn’t easily reveal dirt and smudges.


Experts recommend that solid hardwood floors be three-quarters-of-an-inch thick. Thinner hardwood floor options may be cheaper, but will be less durable, prone to damage, and will eventually require replacement. Thinness will also limit the number of times the floor can be sanded and refinished over its lifetime.


Make sure all the hardwood you purchase comes from the same lot number. Wood that has the same name and inventory number can still vary slightly in shade if not from the same lot.


Prefinished flooring typically has an aluminum-oxide protective coat over the stain. When raw wood floors are installed on-site and then finished, installers usually apply a protective coat of water-based polyurethane or oil.

Alternatives to hardwood floors

Today there are alternatives to traditional hardwood that still look like wood.

  • Engineered wood floors differ in that only the top layer of the boards is hardwood. Beneath this veneer are layers of board similar to plywood. Engineered wood floors cost less than solid hardwood floors but have the same beauty. Be sure to buy engineered wood that is at least five-eighths-of-an-inch thick, with a surface veneer at least three-sixteenths-of-an-inch thick or more. One disadvantage: These floors can be sanded and refinished only once, since the hardwood surface is thinner than with traditional floors.
  • Reclaimed wood from old barns, homes, factories and warehouses has become a popular choice in recent years. These floors are environmentally friendly because they use recycled material, not wood from recently cut trees. After this type of wood is gathered, nails are pulled from it and then it is sanded and dried in a kiln. For best results, go see the wood for yourself at the dealer. If you are ordering remotely, ask to see photos.
  • Laminate floors, such as Pergo, look like real wood but are made from a synthetic material. These floors are less expensive than hardwood, and recent improvements have made them tough and durable. Laminate floors seem to amplify the sounds of footsteps and dropped items, however, so be sure to have padding installed beneath them to keep them quiet.
 

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.


 
 
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Know Your House: Roof Structure, Styles and Materials


If you’re a homeowner, the more you know about your house and its components, the better you can care for your investment. A roof provides one of humanity’s most basic needs: shelter. Here’s a quick primer on roof structure, styles, and materials.

Basic roof structure

The framing boards that form the pitch of a roof are called rafters. The base ends of those boards rest on 2” x 8” or 2”x 10” boards called joists, which in turn rest on top of exterior and interior walls. Sheets of thermal board, plywood or another type of sheet lumber called OSB are nailed on top of these boards to form a covering. This layer is called roof decking. A waterproof fabric material called a vapor barrier, which repels water that may leak through the shingles is laid atop the decking. The final layer, visible from the exterior, is shingles, tiles or metal.

Inside a home’s attic, on the underside of the deck, there may be an insulating thermal coating called a radiant barrier. If your home is older, this may have been added later, but today thermal decking used in new construction has radiant insulating material on its underside.

The roofline you love

The look of the roof contributes a lot to the appeal of a house. There are styles of roofs for everyone’s taste, both for the entire house and for any dormers on the roof. Here are some of the most popular.

  • gable roof is peaked with two sides that are of equal height and upward slope.
  • hip roof has pitch on each side and on the ends of the house. All four sides slope upward. A house can have a main roof that is not hipped but dormers that are.
  • Gambrel roofs evoke the shape of a barn. These roofs slope down from the peak on two sides, then slope again at a steeper pitch.
  • Flat roofs need no explanation but are popular with some architectural styles.

Dormers can add interest to long expanses of roof. Perhaps the most popular dormer is the classic gable dormer, which rises directly from the main roof at a right angle, with a peaked roof of its own of equal height and slope on each side. An arched or eyebrow dormer has a long, gently arched roof.

Roofing materials

There are many types of roofing materials and many new innovations introduced in recent years.

  • Asphalt shingles have been almost ubiquitous for decades because they are durable, come in many color choices, and are effective in climate conditions everywhere. Asphalt shingle roofs last about 20 years.
  • Slate and ceramic tile roofs are beautiful, last many decades, and are suitable for warm climates. You often see them in homes in the southwestern U.S. and California. They are heavy, and the roof framing that supports them must be stronger than most of the other roof structure.
  • The classic metal roof is laid in large, overlapping sheets, although In recent years metal has been fashioned to mimic slate and ceramic tiles. Metal roofs can last more than 50 years. Two downsides to metal roofs are that hail may dent them and they are noisy during heavy rain (although some people like this feature).
  • You don’t have to settle for the stereotypical large solar panels if you want to be environmentally friendly and save on electricity costs. Solar panels can now be made to look like tile that can be used as roofing.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.


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Living With Pets In Small Spaces


Whether you are single, a couple or a family with kids, living in a small space means adapting to tight quarters. Now add a dog, a cat or both, and the space seems even smaller. How can you live harmoniously with pets in small spaces?

Be very practical

Focus on having just enough furnishings. Save the statuary or other accessories that take floor space for a future, more spacious setting. For now, make life with pets in a limited area easier by focusing only on seating, dining, sleeping and storage that use the minimum floor space necessary. Look for furniture that can do double duty, such as cabinets that can house dog beds or litter boxes.

Go up, not out

Make use of shelving to take items off the floor. Use baskets in shelving spaces to store pet toys, supplies and even pet beds. Your cat might like to sleep up high on a shelf. Hanging baskets can also be used for the same purposes and require no floor space.

Creative use of small spaces

Look for clever places to keep bowls, litter boxes and bedding if you live with pets in small spaces. How about a television cabinet fitted with a doggie door and his bed inside? Or the same space under a stairway or inside a bedroom nightstand?


A low drawer can house food and water bowls and be tucked out of sight afterward. A cabinet with a pet door can open to the litter box. Laundry spaces often provide the best opportunities to keep pet accommodations away from actual living areas. Just make sure your pets always have access to drinking water, their beds and, if you have cats, a litter box.


If you have more than one pet, keep in mind that you may need two feeding spots to prevent rival hostilities.

The great outdoors

Install a pet door on the back door to a patio, deck or balcony so that your fur baby can spend time enjoying fresh air while you have time to yourself. Once again, be practical in your furnishings if the outdoor space is as tight as indoors. Limit yourself to seating, a grill and a table. Provide a water bowl, but not a feeding bowl, as food outside invites unwanted visitors like raccoons.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.


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Extreme Temperatures Affect Appliances


It makes sense that temperatures might affect outdoor appliances, but did you know that extreme temperatures can affect appliances inside your basement, garage or house as well? Here’s what you need to know about temperature’s effect on appliances and what you can do to prevent damage.

Refrigerators and freezers

A refrigerator can shut down in freezing weather if located outside or on a poorly insulated exterior wall in a cold garage or basement. Conversely, extremely hot exterior temps make refrigerators and freezers in these areas work extra hard to maintain temperatures, increasing energy costs.


If you must keep an extra freezer or refrigerator in an unheated garage or basement during the winter, use a space heater to warm the area. Be sure to place the heater safely away from anything combustible and use it only as long as needed to raise temps above the -34 degrees celsius / mid -30 degrees fahrenheit. If there’s an ice maker, insulate its water supply line and, in the bitter cold, turn it off and drain the line.


For home owners in warmer climates, if you have that extra refrigerator or freezer because you need more space for food, calculate the cost savings of buying a new, larger unit for inside the house and eliminating the outside one.

Washing Machines

Icy winter temperatures can cause problems with your washing machine. To prevent damage from ice, keep the washer’s water supply line insulated in winter. When temperatures are expected to drop dangerously low, turn off the water at the wall valve, disconnect it from the washing machine, and drain it.

Water heater

Water heaters are usually located in a garage, attic or basement, all of which are areas subject to freezing temps. To prevent damage when the mercury drops, insulate the water supply line to the heater. Each year, hire a plumber to drain and flush the tank to remove sediment.

Heating and air conditioning

The HVAC component most at risk in winter is the outside condenser. If you live in an area of the country that gets a lot of snow, place a protective hedge, screen or cover around the unit to block snowdrifts or ice from covering it.

When you’re away

If you’re planning to be away from your home for an extended period in the winter, you’ll likely turn down the thermostat to save energy costs. To avoid frozen pipes and other potential damage, though, it’s best not to go below around 12 degrees celsius / 55 degrees fahrenheit.

 


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. The article was revised from HOUSEOPEDIA'S original article.


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How to Draft-Proof Your Home for a Lower Heating Bill


If you turn up the thermostat and don't feel the heat, there's a problem. Old windows, worn doors, and poorly installed outlet covers are basically an open invitation for the frigid winter air to make its way indoors. To avoid feeling the draft — and cut down on your heating bill — follow these tips from the Good Housekeeping Institute.

Pay Attention to These Key Areas

Before you go around looking for leaks and drafts, it helps to know where to start. Keep an eye out for these common problem areas that often let cold air in.

  • Electrical outlets
  • Switch plates
  • Door and window frames
  • Baseboards
  • Fireplace dampers
  • Attic hatches
  • Wall- or window-mounted air conditioners
  • Cable TV and phone lines
  • Vents and fans

How to Detect Leaks

Switch on a flashlight.

At night, shine a flashlight, like the Maglite Mini PRO LED Flashlight, on door and window frames. If the person on the other side sees light, you may have a leak.

Grab a dollar bill.

If you think doors are to blame, slip a dollar bill (or standard piece of paper) under the door. If you can pull the dollar bill out without it dragging, then you have a significant air leak.

Light some incense.

Turn off the furnace and water heater and turn on exhaust fans. Hold a lit incense stick by windows, outlets, doors, and any other suspected areas. If smoke blows sideways, you likely have a leak.

Use a thermal leak detector.

Invest in a thermal leak detector, like the Black & Decker TLD100, to read surface temperatures of walls, doors, floorboards, and more. If the reading is a lot colder than the air, there's a leak.

How to Get Rid of Drafts

For cracks less than 1/4 inch, use caulk.

To fill cracks near windows and doors, use a long-lasting caulk that's made for outdoor use. GE Silicone 2+, a Good Housekeeping Institute favorite, is 100% weatherproof, sun-proof, and freeze-proof (a.k.a. it's basically indestructible). In general, look for caulks made with mold-free technology that adhere to common surfaces.

For cracks between 1/4 inch and 3 inches, use spray foam.

Avoid messy foam drips by finding a spray foam that comes with a straw, like GREAT STUFF Insulating Foam Sealant. This quick-action foam deflects water and is tacky to touch in just eight minutes. Unlike caulk, spray foam can be more difficult to use so we recommend dispensing it onto newspaper before tackling trouble areas. To quicken the curing process — the time it takes to settle — mist the area with water before and after spraying.

For doors, use a draft stopper.

Draft stoppers, like this best-seller on Amazon, Home Intuition Draft Stopper, prevent cold air from sneaking in under doors. It may not be as discreet as caulk or sealant, but it gets the job done. You can choose from weighted cloth versions that stay on the floor or plastic draft guards that fit around the door itself.

For bigger problems, fix your insulation.

If the insulation in your attic doesn't reach the top of the floor joists, there's not enough to trap heat. Visit a home improvement store for DIY attic insulation or hire someone to get the job done.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.


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No Home Should Be Without Carbon Monoxide Detectors


Similar to smoke alarms, carbon monoxide detectors are an essential warning device in every home — perhaps even more so. While sleeping residents might be awakened by the smell of smoke and take action, carbon monoxide is odorless and can disable and kill without warning.


Odorless and invisible. Carbon monoxide is produced whenever a fuel is being burned. It is odorless and invisible. Car exhaust produces carbon monoxide. So can a charcoal fire, a gas- or oil-burning heater, or even a wood-burning stove. All of these must be vented to the outside to not only remove smoke, but also carbon monoxide.

Here are some of the most common sources of home carbon monoxide poisoning.

  • Home heating system. A home with a gas heater produces carbon monoxide, which normally is vented out of the house. With age, a part called the heat exchanger can crack and allow the gas to leak into the home. Other home heating dangers can occur with any sort of portable, fuel-burning device that is not vented. Gas log fireplaces must be properly vented as well.
  • Appliances.  Gas-burning stoves, ovens, dryers and water heaters all produce carbon monoxide and must be properly vented.
  • Generators. During a power outage, generators should only be operated outside to vent exhaust. Never run a generator inside a house or garage.
  • Automobiles.  Never have a car, motorcycle or any gasoline-powered vehicle running inside a closed garage. An unhealthy buildup of carbon monoxide gas can occur even if the garage door is open.

Symptoms of poisoning.  Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning can be mistaken for the flu minus a fever. Headache, dramatic tiredness, dizziness and confusion are all indicative of carbon monoxide poisoning. Final stages of carbon monoxide poisoning are lack of muscular control, and unconsciousness leading to death.


Prevention. Have fuel-burning appliances installed by trained, licensed professionals. Have the appliances inspected annually and repaired, if necessary.


Install carbon monoxide detectors. Some smoke detectors now have dual capability. Place one in each bedroom or just outside the bedroom door so that anyone sleeping in the house will be awakened in an emergency.

If you suspect carbon monoxide poisoning, leave the dwelling immediately and call 911. Seek medical evaluation and let the fire department examine the property for a leak. Do not return to the house until the source has been identified and repaired.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.

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Dealing With Home Temperature Differences
 

Owners of two-story homes know the dilemma well: The upstairs tends to be hotter and the downstairs cooler. This makes managing the thermostat challenging. Why does your home have these temperature differences, and what can you do to make things more comfortable throughout the house?

Baby, it’s cold downstairs

The problem is one of thermodynamics. Heat transference makes colder air sink to lower spaces while warmer air rises to higher ones. In winter, your HVAC has a hard time keeping the downstairs comfortably warm because the heat rises to the second floor. In the summer, the cooler air downstairs feels nice, but the upstairs is warmer than you want.

Here are steps you can take to help moderate home temperature differences.

Start with temperature differences in the attic

To make the upstairs more comfortable, start at the very top. Make sure you have plenty of insulation in the rafters between the attic spaces and the upstairs rooms. If you don’t already have a radiant barrier on the underside of the roof decking overhead, consider having one added.


Examine recessed lighting fixtures and return air vents in the attic to ensure there’s a good seal around them. Make sure you have adequate weather stripping around the edges of attic doors and ceiling hatches. Put a layer of insulation on hatch doors.

Windows and their coverings

The upstairs windows can be another source of heat transference that contributes to temperature differences. Keep shades drawn to insulate from the hot rays of the sun. If your windows themselves are older and not energy efficient, shop for new ones, particularly those with “low-E” glass, which inhibits heat transference.

Use fans

When you are upstairs, use ceiling fans. They don’t actually cool the air but they keep it moving, which makes you more comfortable.

Addressing the temperature difference in the HVAC system

Have your HVAC system inspected and serviced once a year. Head off problems in advance that could contribute to inefficient operation. Have the HVAC pro inspect the ducts for any leaks, especially the ones that service the upstairs. Perhaps it’s warmer there in summer in part because the cool air is leaking out before it even arrives in upstairs rooms. Inadequately sized ducts and return registers upstairs can also contribute to temperature differences, so have an HVAC pro check to see that they’re the proper size.


Keep your heating and air-conditioning filters changed on a regular basis. Allowing air filters to become clogged with dust makes your HVAC system work harder, contributing to uncomfortable air temperatures and higher energy bills.

If you have one HVAC system and one thermostat to service both stories of your house, talk to your HVAC professional about investing in a zoned system. This would provide each floor with its own heating and air as well as thermostat. Although a significant investment, zoned systems make it much easier to achieve balanced air temperatures than does a single system servicing both floors.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.


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Adding a Fence To Your Property
 

Backyard fences are a popular choice these days, particularly if you’ve got small children or pets that wander. But before you put up the first panel or pound in the first fence post, drive through your neighborhood to see what’s customary and check with town or neighborhood authorities to see if there are rules governing the height of fences, what materials can be used, and whether or not fences must be landscaped.


Still not sure? Here are a few pros and cons to fencing, along with a quick guide to the types of fence materials. 


Benefits. A well-chosen fence can add a sense of place and help define your property. If you have pets or children, a fence will keep them contained. You’ll also need a fence if you have a pool. Many people like the privacy fences afford them. More secure fence options can also keep unwanted visitors off your property.


Drawbacks. In some cases, a fence may not be a good option. This may be the case if you live in an area where most homes don’t have fences. Erecting a fence may make your home feel isolated and unapproachable. Using low quality materials or a style that doesn’t coordinate with neighboring fences can detract from your home.


Fencing options. Fencing options — both style and material — are wide ranging. The best choice for you will depend on the purpose of your fence, the types of existing fences in your neighborhood, and your budget.


Metal and chain link fences are durable, and work well to define a property or contain animals. While chain-link fencing isn’t particularly attractive, it is an inexpensive option. The average price for metal fencing is around $9 CAD per foot, to around $5 per foot to $15 USD per foot.


Wood fences can be used for neighbor-friendly picket fences or privacy fences. Wood choices are wide-ranging but one of the most popular is pressure-treated lumber, which resists rotting and requires less maintenance. Fences can be left natural or altered with paint or stain but require more maintenance. Wood fencing costs at around $15 CAD per foot, to around $5 per foot to $10 USD per foot.


Vinyl fencing is easy for a homeowner to install because it’s lightweight and comes in panels. Though durable and requiring little maintenance, vinyl won’t work for security fencing. Range from $22 per foot to $33 CAD per foot, to around $20 USD per foot, vinyl fencing is affordable.


Aluminum is an alternative to wrought iron that offers a similar look at a more affordable price — from around $29 to $42 CAD per foot, to $30 USD per foot. It is often used to border a yard or pool.


Wrought iron is a strong material with longevity. Its benefits include an attractive traditional style and excellent security. This kind of fence must be made and installed by professionals and comes with a hefty price tag. Wrought iron fences may cost up as much as $130 CAD per foot, to around $100 USD per foot.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. Prices above does not include labour for professional installation. Prices and listing order were revised to reflect estimates in both CDN & US dollars from HOUSEOPEDIA's original article. 




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Tips on Selling a Home with Pets

When pet owners put their homes up for sale, it’s best to make those beloved animals disappear without a trace or at least a low profile. The dog beds, the cat crates, the hair, the chew marks and the smell all need to be removed before the first showing. Here’s a step-by-step guide on selling your home with pets.


Priority one: odor and stain removal. Even a pet-loving buyer will be turned off if the house smells. Pet and smoking odors rate as top turnoffs. You may have become “nose blind” to your pets’ smells, so have a friend do a sniff check.

  • Have your carpets professionally cleaned with enzyme solutions that remove organic smells and stains.
  • Keep pet bedding clean and ready to stash in your car when notified of a showing. The same goes for food and water bowls.
  • Bath dogs weekly. Unbathed dogs smell and the odor can work into carpet, cloth upholstery and drapery. Inside cats rarely need bathing, but if they do, a rubdown with a wet towel is a good option.

Hair removal. While on the market, vacuum and sweep daily to remove pet hair. Chase down dust and hair bunnies under furniture. Wipe down cabinets and shelves. Brush your pet two or three times per week to limit shedding.


Repair damage. If the dog has chewed the woodwork or walls, make all repairs before showing the house. If your hardwood floors are noticeably scratched, refinish them or risk buyers walking away. Any signs of pet damage may cause buyers to pass on your house, questioning what other issues may be lurking.


Clean up your yard.  Remove dog waste daily. If your animals have torn up the lawn, it’s best to reseed or lay sod.


Vacate the premises. Your pets — and all their belongings — should be removed from the house during showings. Besides being a turn off, you don’t want to risk a pet biting or scratching prospective buyers or their children. You also don’t want them to be a distraction to buyers. Ask that your home be shown by appointment only and then be prepared to load up your pets and all their gear when you get the call. If that’s not possible, make arrangements with a friend, relative or neighbor to keep your pets during showings. If indoor cats or crated dogs needs to stay home, let all showing appointments know ahead of time. 


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. Article was revised from HOUSEOPEDIA'S original article.


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Step-By Step-Details to Beautiful Staircase Design
 

Elegant, sweeping stairs are one of the central contributors to a home’s beauty. Here are the latest trends in stairs, which just might sweep you off your feet.


Anatomy of a staircase. If you are updating a staircase or in the process of a building a new one, it’s helpful to know the lingo. The steps themselves are known as treads. The vertical board connecting each tread is called a riser. The large posts anchoring the top, bottom and some points in between are known as newel posts. The many smaller posts in between newels are the balusters. The handrail is also sometimes called the cap.

In many areas the local building code may require that you have a handrail on each side. If one side is a wall, a rail will need to be mounted on the wall.


Hire the right person. Find a construction company that specializes in stair construction. It will have the experience and skill for the job, plus offer many choices in designs, materials and colors. If you are sketching out your own design and hiring a carpenter, you should know that not just any carpenter will do.


A framing carpenter can make rough cuts for joists and beams, but building stairs is similar to building cabinets. It requires a more refined skill called finish carpentry. Request a photo portfolio of each contractor you interview. Some popular staircase designs have metals and even glass, which may require other skilled contractors.


Design and material choices.  Here’s the fun part. Survey online forums, not to mention the websites of stair specialty companies. Costs vary widely, dependent on materials selected and the intricacy of the design. Among the many choices:

  • Traditional designs feature stained wooden treads, newel posts and caps, with white balusters. This is a classic standby that never goes out of style.

  • Metals are increasingly incorporated into stair designs, particularly for balusters such as the “twist and basket” design. One popular look has all metal newels and caps and instead of vertical balusters, has horizontal steel cable stretched between newels.

  • Glass is now a growing trend in stair materials. Instead of balusters between newels, some staircases have a glass wall. Even glass treads are gaining popularity.

  • Each step or tread can be one continuous flow, connected one to the next with risers, or each step can be detached and independent, with a space between each. This works when the floor space under the staircase is open. Some very modern looks have each step completely independent of one another and even detached from the balusters. Essentially, each step is mounted to the adjacent wall by itself and appears to be floating in mid-air.

  • The treads may have carpet or not, but remember to keep safety in mind. The surface of each tread should have some texture to it to prevent slipping.

  • If space permits, have the bottom couple of steps flair to the sides, providing a subtle, welcoming feel.

  • In houses where one long, sweeping staircase isn’t possible, split stairs incorporate a landing, or even two, then a turn in another direction until the upper floor is reached.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.



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Touchless Technology for a Cleaner, Healthier Home


The COVID-19 pandemic has made us aware of the many things in our homes that multiple people touch each day. We can sanitize those surfaces frequently, but today’s touchless technology makes it possible to avoid touching many surfaces at all. You may forget and touch your face, but at least you have no need to touch these household devices.

Clean connections

Even with touchless technology, it’s important to regularly sanitize every switch, knob, handle and remote device in your home. You also need to sanitize your cell phone frequently, since some touchless technologies are controlled by phone apps.

Smart hubs

A smart speaker system such as Amazon EchoGoogle HomeGoogle Nest Audio, and Apple HomePod minallows you to control many items around your home with voice commands instead of touch. With this touchless technology, you can turn the TV or lights on or off, play music or radio stations, adjust the thermostat, raise or lower motorized window shades and much more.

Locks and doors

Smart home security systems let you lock and unlock your home’s doors, raise and lower the garage door, adjust the thermostat control and more, all from an app on your phone. These touchless technology systems also offer convenience: You can let people in while you are away and shut the garage door if you forgot to when you left. Camera monitoring of your home is visible from your phone app, and you’ll  get a push notification when doors are opened while you are away. Personal monitoring devices for the elderly allow you to check on them remotely.

Touchless floor cleaning

Regardless of the coronavirus, who wouldn’t love to quit sweeping and mopping the floor? With touchless technology, you can hang up the mop and broom. iRobot’s Roomba will sweep for you, even around furniture and into corners.Then the iRobot Braava Jet M6 takes on the mopping, cleaning the floor areas you select. Or you might like the iRobot Roomba i7 Vacuum with Clean Base Automatic Dirt Disposal takes convenience to a new level - automatically emptying into an enclosed, disposable bag that holds 30 robot bins so you don’t have to think about vacuuming for weeks.

Touchless technology in the bathroom and kitchen

Hand washing has never been more important, but when you turn the faucet handle or pump the soap dispenser, you’re doing it with dirty hands. Why touch these at all when manufacturers like Moen and Kohler make faucets with motion-sensing technology that turns on the water with the wave of a hand? Likewise, brands like Kohler and simplehuman make dispensers that squirt liquid soap into your palm for you.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. New tech products for floor cleaning were added to HOUSEOPEDIA'S original article.


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National GDP & Alberta Economic Update

by CREB®Now Feb 1, 2021


COVID-19 has had widespread impacts on the economy. The shutdowns had significant economic repercussions in the retail, arts and entertainment, tourism, service, and transportation (airlines) industries across the country.


Alberta also faced the additional impact of struggles in the energy sector.


The reduction in global oil demand caused prices to drop to levels far lower than what we have seen over the past five years. This resulted in a significant drop in capital investment and drilling activity. While prices have been recovering from the lows of the spring, some energy forecasters expect prices to generally remain below levels recorded over the past four years and below $50/barrel in 2021.


The economic impacts of further shutdowns at the end of 2020 will likely flow into the early part of 2021.


Nonetheless, economic activity is expected to improve in 2021 following the significant retraction in 2020. However, with travel and social-gathering restrictions expected to persist until enough of the population is vaccinated, the hardest-hit industries – such as accommodation and food, travel, and energy – are expected to take longer to fully recover.


The government supports for businesses and households are expected to remain in place until the middle of 2021, helping to cushion the impact caused by the pandemic. However, given the global magnitude of the crisis, full economic recovery is not expected until late 2022 at the earliest.







Key factors impacting the Alberta economy in 2020

COVID-19 and the shutdown of our economy resulted in a sharp decline in growth, followed by a quick bounce back as the economy reopened. However, the economy did not bounce back to pre-pandemic levels and a second partial shutdown at the end of the year is expected to claw back some of the progress made.


The energy sector was hit particularly hard in 2020, as global oil demand fell and prices crashed. While prices have improved from the lows recorded early in 2020, they remain lower than the levels recorded when oil prices first fell back in 2014. While some mergers have already been announced, further consolidation in the sector is expected.


Final GDP figures for 2020 are not expected to be released until mid-2021, but Alberta is expected to be one of the hardest hit provinces in terms of economic contraction for 2020. It not only impacted our retail, tourism and airline industries, but also had a significant impact on the energy sector.


Low lending rates and government support helped prevent a more significant impact on the housing market.

Persistently high unemployment rates and significant job losses in some sectors of our economy dominated 2020.


Provincial figures point toward more people leaving the province than entering.This shift is due to some loss to other provinces, but also the significant drop in international migration. Thankfully, our young demographic has helped support population growth, albeit at slower rates.


Persistently high unemployment rates and significant job losses in some sectors of our economy dominated 2020.


Provincial figures point toward more people leaving the province than entering.This shift is due to some loss to other provinces, but also the significant drop in international migration. Thankfully, our young demographic has helped support population growth, albeit at slower rates.




Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.



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Data is supplied by Pillar 9™ MLS® System. Pillar 9™ is the owner of the copyright in its MLS®System. Data is deemed reliable but is not guaranteed accurate by Pillar 9™.
The trademarks MLS®, Multiple Listing Service® and the associated logos are owned by The Canadian Real Estate Association (CREA) and identify the quality of services provided by real estate professionals who are members of CREA. Used under license.