Credit Image: longwallpapers.com

Although dogs and cats are carnivores, they sometimes will munch on plants that are potentially hazardous. Here’s a list of some common indoor and outdoor plants that are dangerous to pets and a second list of plants that are pet-friendly.

Plants that can be hazardous to pets.

• Azalea can cause vomiting, diarrhea, drooling and possible death.
• Baby’s breath, a filler in floral arrangements, can cause gastrointestinal upset.
• Begonia, especially the tubers, can cause intense mouth irritation and drooling.
• Cyclamen, especially the roots, if your dog digs and gnaws on them, can cause severe vomiting and death.
• Daffodils can cause heart arrhythmia, among other nasty symptoms.
• Gladiolas are popular in floral arrangements. Keep them out of the reach of pets because they can cause vomiting, diarrhea and lethargy.
• Lilies, especially the “true” lilies such as the Tiger, Asian, Japanese Show, Easter, Stargazer and Casa Blanca, can cause kidney failure in cats, but are harmless to dogs.
• Oleander is beautiful and popular in southern climes. It is also deadly, every part of it, to pets and humans.
  Sago palms are another southern favorite and can cause liver failure in pets.
• Tulip bulbs are dangerous to dogs that dig and chew. They can cause nervous system problems and convulsions.
• Yew is a very popular evergreen, but can affect a pet’s nervous system, cause difficulty breathing, and cardiac failure.

Plants that are safe for pets.

• Indoors: Palms such as areca, bamboo and ponytail are safe; African violets; Boston ferns; the succulent Burros Tail; and the flowering plant Bromeliad.
• Outdoors: Snapdragons; canna lilies; pineapple sage; coral bells; and creeping rosemary.

What to do if your pet eats a plant? Immediately look up the plant and its level of toxicity to animals. If it is dangerous, take the pet and a sample of the plant to a veterinarian for emergency care.

Ever wish your living room was as stylish as those you see in home-decorating magazines? Or, are you getting ready to sell your home and want a living room buyers will love? By applying the principles of home staging, you can transform your living room into a space both you and potential buyers will love.

Step 1. Start by rearranging the furniture. Maximize the spaciousness of the room without losing that intimate feel. Group seating for easy conversation. A big no-no: Lining up furniture along the walls. Another pitfall: Having too much furniture for the size of the room. Consider removing a piece (or two) to create space if the room feels cramped or lacks flow.

Step 2. Clean every surface. Use a rug cleaner to remove dirt and stains from carpet and upholstery. If furniture needs to be replaced but buying new is out of the question, slipcovers are a good option.

Step 3. Eliminate clutter. Clear off horizontal surfaces and store necessary items in attractive containers. Baskets or bins can be a great way to tidy up quickly for unexpected visits. If you’re staging for yourself, remember that less is more. Display only the best family photos and most treasured keepsakes. If you’re staging for sale, pack away your personal items.

Step 4. Consider color and details. Light, neutral furniture makes a room feel open, while dark, richer colors cozy up a space. Add pops of color and texture with pillows, throws and artwork. Coordinating these accessories help unify a room. Aim for a designer feel — cohesive, but not “matchy-matchy.”

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.

The modern farmhouse style is one of today’s hottest trends in residential design. The style mixes classic farmhouse basics with modern, industrial and rustic accents to create homes that are both cozy and uncluttered. Is a modern farmhouse living the life for you?

What defines a modern farmhouse interior

Traditional farmhouse style, with its liberal use of wood, color and vintage furnishings, has long been popular. Several years ago, Chip and Joanna Gaines of the HGTV program Fixer Upper updated farmhouse style with modern, minimalist touches, and the popularity of the design took off.

Today’s modern farmhouse style creates uncluttered rooms with an urban edge. The style is defined by open, spacious rooms with plenty of windows providing natural light. Wide wood-plank flooring and natural wood beams traversing overhead characterize the style, as do barn-style doors and walls covered with plank siding known as shiplap. Light fixtures and other design elements often have an industrial feel.

Contrasts of light versus dark play a significant role throughout the modern farmhouse. Shiplap walls, shaker-style kitchen cabinets and trim are often painted white. White subway tile backsplashes look clean and fresh against butcher block or dark granite countertops. Dark-stained floors and black metal elements such as light fixtures and window frames provide contrast throughout the house. Where walls are Sheetrocked, they are painted in soft neutrals such as cream or gray.

Modern farmhouse kitchens often feature open wood or metal shelving or cabinet doors with divided glass. Appliances are stainless steel. Apron-front sinks are commonplace, and hardware is generally dark.

The light vs. dark contrast continues in furnishings. Light neutral fabrics — no bright colors or bold patterns — contrast with dark or black-painted wood. You might see black barstools cozied up to the kitchen counter, or a white distressed dining table with contrasting black chairs. Textural elements such as rugs woven from natural fibers, chunky knitted throws and rattan or wicker seating add warmth to modern farmhouse rooms. Surfaces are left uncluttered. Vintage pieces contrast with modern metal furniture to create cozy, comfortable rooms that appear to have evolved over time.

The outside look

Modern farmhouse exteriors are usually covered at least partially with plank wood siding or board and batten, often painted white with contrasting black-framed windows. Front doors, painted a muted color or made of contrasting natural wood, pop against the white siding. Gabled rooflines complete the look.

Premium prices

With their surging popularity, modern farmhouse style homes may be priced a little higher than other designs. If you’re the seller, you could reap a premium.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.

CREDIT: GETTY IMAGES

The latest buzzwords in home interiors: bright, cheery and simplified. Say “hello” to white cabinets and light gray walls and “so-long” to dark woods and moody colors.

1. Cabinets painted in light, bright colors, often in white, are seeing a resurgence. Another popular trend is the open shelving look. Typically this look is coupled with white subway tile, a farmhouse sink and a gooseneck stainless steel commercial-grade faucet. Cabinets with glass doors also are popular.

2. Dark granite countertops are being replaced by lighter quartz surfaces with more subtle patterns in both kitchens and baths. The effect is a brighter, cheery look.

3. Hardwoods are still in fashion, but with a darker stain and so-called hand-scraped look, providing contrast with the lighter cabinets and counters. In bathrooms, larger tiles in soft grays are popular with white cabinets and quartz counters.

4. Wall color trends are toward light grays and “greige,” a mixture of beige and gray. These colors blend well with owner’s furnishings but have a little more style than the standard “builder beige” that was so often seen in new homes of the 90s and early 2000s.

5. implification is the overriding trend in bathrooms. Garden tubs are out, replaced by bigger showers with seating. Also popular are larger custom tiles with an accent strip of contrasting smaller tile, inset spaces for shampoos and soap, multiple shower heads and frameless doors. Cabinets and counters follow the same trend as kitchen counters and cabinets with brighter looks and simple lines.

6. Lighting. Of course, all the bright colored cabinets and counters in the world can’t overcome dim lighting. Large windows and skylights are the way many homeowners today are letting the sunshine in. In older homes, owners are knocking out walls, opening up the floorplan, and spreading natural window light throughout the home.

CREDIT: GETTY IMAGES

Homes built between 1978 and 1995 often have plumbing made of polybutylene, a leak-prone material that is no longer used in construction. What is polybutylene, what problems does it present, and what does replacing it entail?

How poly-b plumbing came to be

Polybutylene, or “poly-b,” pipes and fittings were hailed in 1978 as a terrific alternative to traditional copper plumbing. Copper is difficult to work with and can be expensive, but poly-b was lightweight, flexible and could be assembled with screw-together connectors instead of soldering. Poly-b plumbing systems saved home builders money, both on materials and in labor cost.

Years after poly-b was installed, it turned out that the piping degraded when exposed to the chlorine in treated water. As a result, the joints that connected sections of the poly-b pipe would crack or develop pinhole leaks. Pipe failure happened most often within 20 feet of a home’s water heater, where the combination of heat and chlorine spelled double trouble for poly-b.

Poly-b leaks that occur out in the open are easy to spot and stop quickly. But leaks inside walls or in concrete slabs can cause substantial damage before a homeowner realizes there’s a leak. Once these defects were discovered, class-action lawsuits were filed against poly-b manufacturers, and in the mid-1990s, U.S. and Canadian building codes began disallowing poly-b.

Identifying polybutylene plumbing

Homes built between 1978 and 1995 likely contain poly-b plumbing unless it has been replaced. If you’re considering the purchase of a home built during that era, check the house’s listing ad or simply ask whether it had poly-b plumbing and, if so, whether it has been replaced. A home inspection during the sales process may also reveal its presence.

Poly-b has two identifying characteristics. First, it generally is gray. Some poly-b is white, however, so the second way to spot it is by the coding stamped on the piping. Poly-b is coded with the letters “PB” followed by numbers.

Preferable plumbing options

Copper, which became very popular nearly a century ago, is still a viable plumbing material. Copper plumbing is more expensive than other alternatives, however, and acidic water can cause it to develop pinhole leaks. Cross-linked polyethylene, or PEX, is a lightweight, extremely flexible plastic plumbing that doesn’t have the deterioration issues of poly-b. Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride, or CPVC, is another plastic plumbing that is strong and easy to work with. CPVC is now widely used in construction.

How much does replacement cost?

Now that poly-b has been off the market for more than 20 years, it has steadily been replaced in homes nationwide. But if your house has poly-b, or you are considering buying a home with it, that may affect your ability to obtain homeowners’ insurance. Insurance agents usually ask about poly-b when they learn that a home was built during the relevant period. If the home has poly-b plumbing, the company may require you to replace it before agreeing to ensure your house,  or it may charge an unusually high premium for water damage coverage.

Replacing poly-b generally costs between $3,000 to $25,000 CAD and $1,500 to $15,000 US, depending on the size of the home, the number of stories, the material used for replacement and the number of plumbing fixtures in the home.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. The article was revised from HOUSEOPEDIA’s original article.

Since your bathroom is where you prepare to meet the day, good bathroom lighting is essential to looking your best. Here’s how to illuminate this important part of your home.

Areas to be lit

Three areas in your bathroom need appropriate lighting. The most important is the vanity. Good lighting is crucial here, since the vanity is where you shave, apply makeup, fix hair and brush your teeth. Vanity light fixtures should cast light evenly without creating shadows.

The shower and bath are next in importance for good lighting, followed by the water closet-toilet area. While not essential, additional accent lighting can add ambiance.

Vanity task lighting

If space allows, the ideal light fixtures for the vanity area are wall sconces set on either side of the mirror at eye level. These cast light evenly on each side of the face. If a sconce’s shade opens downward, the opening edge should be positioned just below eye level. If the shade points upward, the edge should be positioned just above eye level. Avoid shadows by using a frosted shade with clear bulbs or a clear shade with frosted bulbs.

Sometimes space does not allow for side sconces in the bathroom. In other situations, sconces on either side of a wide mirror over a double sink vanity will be too far apart. Your best option in these situations is over-the-mirror lighting.

Shower, bath and toilet

The most common bathroom lighting fixtures for the shower and toilet areas are overhead recessed lights. Where the bathtub is separate from the shower, you can illuminate it with overhead recessed lighting or wall sconces. A chandelier over the tub or centered in the bathroom can provide both drama and pleasant ambient lighting.

Light fixture materials

Brass, brushed nickel and chrome are popular choices for bathroom lighting fixtures and work with a wide range of design styles. For the sake of continuity, light fixtures should be made from materials that match or coordinate with other metal finishes in the bathroom.

When choosing bathroom lighting, look for “damp-rated” fixtures made to withstand the humidity of a bathroom.

Fluorescent and LED light bulbs will generate little to no heat, and the cost of using them is less than half that of incandescent bulbs.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.

Safety needs to be the first element in a child’s bathroom design, but don’t forget to add a splash of fun. Knowing how quickly children grow, keep versatility in mind, allowing for quick and easy changes.  From babies to teens, here are some ideas for creating bathrooms kids will love.

Let them have a say

Children often have strong ideas about what they like and don’t like, so take them shopping with you. Allow them to pick a theme or color scheme from among several choices the adults in the house can live with. Go with neutral paint and tile colors, giving the kids a wider range of choices on things like shower curtains, towels, and soap dispensers.

Giving children ownership of some of the design elements will mean they’re more apt to use the space and help keep it tidy.

Bathroom safety features

For babies and toddlers, bathrooms need to provide a safe place to bathe and learn personal hygiene. Install cabinet locks to keep cleaning supplies, medicines, and other necessities out of reach. Consider a toilet lock as well, as some children are fascinated with the water. Since kids can slip and fall in a wet tub, look for a non-slip mat to place on the bottom. A thermometer will help parents avoid too-hot or too-cold baths.

Storage in a kids’ bathroom

Young children typically enjoy bath toys, which can eat up valuable space otherwise used for necessities like towels, washcloths, and shampoos. For small bathrooms, a “toy catcher” that hangs on the wall with suction cups will save space and keep them accessible. Make sure to have a stool handy so little ones can reach the faucet without climbing. Use color-coded towels and storage bins so each child can easily distinguish their items from their siblings.

Transitioning through the years

Young children typically prefer bright, happy colors in bold patterns, while teens may gravitate toward more muted tones. As the bath toys and stools disappear, you may consider adding a book or magazine rack or extra storage for all those skin, hair, and makeup products that come with the teen years.

Changing towels, shower curtains, and rugs are quick, inexpensive ways to update. For bolder, but still affordable changes, consider painting the vanity, and replacing the mirror or light fixture.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.

Technology has accelerated the ability to have a super energy-efficient home. Here are seven must-have ways to slash your usage and cost.

1. Cool roofing. The roof takes the brunt of the sun’s energy and absorbs heat, affecting the cooling of the whole house. Light colored roof shingles were introduced to help mitigate that heat, but now “cool roofs” offer dark colored shingles that reflect the sun’s heat. The Certainteed company offers two lines of these heat-reflecting shingles. 

2. Radiant Barrier.  A radiant barrier is a reflective coating on the underside of the roof decking. It has a plywood sheet with a shiny metallic side that faces into the attic. The house still needs to have proper R-19 or better insulation in the attic floor. A radiant barrier under these conditions can deliver 16 percent to 42 percent heat reduction over no barrier, which would translate to a 15 percent to 25 percent reduction in energy bills.

3. Thermal wrap. Thermal wrap is installed on the outside of the frame of the house to keep the home’s heating or cooling inside. There are different wraps for different types of exterior siding. Some consist of a flexible sheet of plastic while others are a combination of thermal wrap attached to wall board. The wrap is attached to the frame and then the exterior siding or masonry is installed. The thermal wrap also provides a moisture barrier to protect the interior of the walls from water and mold damage. Today’s thermal wraps provide an R5 insulating protection.

4. Low E windows. Double-paned glass has now been surpassed by triple pane, adding another insulating barrier to windows. Low E coated glass allows maximum light in while keeping hot summer infrared wavelengths and damaging ultraviolet rays out.

5. High-efficiency heating and air conditioning.  Heating and air units manufactured in the last five years are far more efficient than previous models, using far less electricity or gas. Examples include new technologies designed to manage the heating and cooling in ratio with humidity levels, multi-speed fans, and improved refrigerant valves. 

6. Smart thermostats.  The latest generation of smart thermostats such as Nest, Ecobee, Wyze and iComfort put fine tuned control in your hand through your phone. These smart systems measure outside temperature to calibrate internally, learn and anticipate your choices and sense from your phone’s location when you are nearing home, adjusting temperatures as needed.

7. Water heater. Heating water for your home is second only to heating and air in energy use. Tank water heaters are more efficient than the past, but still generate “standby heat loss,” meaning that it must be heated continually to ensure hot water on demand. Tankless heaters do not store water, but flash heat it on demand.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. The article was revised from HOUSEOPEDIA’s original article.

Keeping your home warm in winter and cool in summer depends on a whole system of comfort engineering. Chief among the components is insulation, the blanket of material in the walls and attic that resists the flow of heat transference from outside to inside and vice versa. Technology and the move toward greater environmental awareness have brought great improvements to insulating material. Here’s a look at what’s available.

Understanding “R” value.  Stuffed inside the outside walls and covering the attic spaces, insulation serves as a blanket to hold heat in place where you want it. Insulation is stuffed or blown into the spaces between wall studs, beams and joists. Insulation, which varies in thickness and quality, is measured in “R” factor. *See the links below for the accepted standard R-Values for insulation in walls and for attics in Canada and USA.

Fiberglass and its improvements. For three or more generations, fiberglass insulation has been dominant. It has served well but health concerns have surfaced over airborne fibers when it is disturbed. Manufacturers now make fiberglass available in sealed bags. Recycled materials are also now being used. The insulation can be blown in or rolled out like a blanket stuffed between studs or joists.

Cellulose. Made of ground-up newspaper and other paper products and treated with a flame-retardant chemical, cellulose was introduced about 25 years ago. It is inexpensive and has a higher R value than fiberglass. Typically it is blown in with a machine.

Recycled denim.  Cotton treated with fire retardant is also used as insulation — the most neutral material for people with allergy sensitivities. Some of the recycled material used comes from discarded blue jeans. Similar products are being made with sheep’s harvested and cleaned wool, which is treated to be water- and mold-resistant.

Spun minerals. Providing excellent R factor, mineral-based insulations such as basalt are multipurpose insulators. This type of insulation has the added bonus of being impervious to damage from water, fire and termites.

Sprayed foam. Made from a variety of materials, spray foam insulation gets pumped into wall spaces and between studs where it hardens and forms a virtually solid barrier to heat loss. Foam board can also be used for the sheathing on the outside wall studs. These foam panels form both an extra layer of insulation and a moisture barrier.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.

*The article was revised from HOUSEOPEDIA’s original article. 

*You can find the for R-Value ratings in Canada's Province, Cities & Zones on Home Depot Canada: 

www.homedepot.ca/en/home/ideas-how-to/home-repair-and-maintenance/how-to-choose-insulation.html

*You can find the R-Value ratings for the US on ENERGY STAR: Recommended Home Insulation R -Values: 

www.energystar.gov/campaign/seal_insulate/identify_problems_you_want_

fix/diy_checks_inspections/insulation_r_values

How long do you need to own a home before you can sell it profitably? The answer depends on your individual situation, but generally speaking, the longer you own a house, the more you’ll net from its eventual sale. Sometimes life intervenes, however, and you need to sell after owning a property for only a few years. Here’s how to decide whether buying a home for the short term is right for you.

Length of ownership affects profitability

Conventional wisdom says that you always make money in real estate. Decades of steady population growth in Canada and the United States have generally put upward pressure on prices. But owning a home is not always profitable; sometimes it turns out you’d have been better off financially if you’d rented for the same period.

Interest rates and national and local economic conditions affect property values. Another factor determining whether you’ll make money when you sell a home is the length of time you’ve owned it. Conventional wisdom has it that you need to own a home at least five years before selling it. To make money when buying a home for the short term, your costs of buying and selling that house must be less than the equity you’ll accumulate during the time you own it.

Recovering costs to buy and sell

Making money on a property comes from building equity in it. Equity grows in two ways. One is when property values appreciate because of external factors, allowing you to sell the house for a relatively higher price than you paid for it. The other type of equity — called paid-in equity — is the amount of a property you actually own because of the down payment you made and the principal you have paid during your ownership.

To make money on the sale of a home, your total equity at the time you sell must exceed the costs of having bought and sold that home. These costs include:

• The closing costs you paid when you bought the home you’re now selling. You can find these costs listed on your closing statement.
• The interest you have paid on your mortgage during your short-term home ownership. Mortgage payments are the same amount each month, but the proportion of that payment that goes toward interest rather than principal shifts over time. In the early years of a mortgage, most of that payment goes toward interest, not toward the mortgage’s principal. This means that you actually build little paid-in equity through your first few years of payments. Check with your lender to determine how much interest you’ve paid.
• The costs you’ll incur selling the home. These include money spent to ready the house for sale, real estate commissions, and the closing costs you pay as the seller.

For any home sale to be profitable, the total of all these costs must be less than the price you sell the home for.

Improving your chances of profiting in the short term

If you are shopping for a house and think that because of job changes, a growing family or other reasons you may be buying for the short term, there are a few things you can do to improve your financial prospects.

• Buy a home you can more easily afford. Don’t strap yourself buying at the maximum that you can pay. One way to do this is to look for a home being sold by a distressed seller.
• Someone who needs to sell quickly because of a job move, divorce, or other difficult circumstance may discount the sales price to speed things along.
• If you think you may be buying for the short term, find a home that is offered at a discount because it needs fixing up. But research repair costs before you make an offer. If they’re high, you may not be getting a bargain.
• If you put down 20 percent or more on the home when you buy it, you will finance less and save on interest costs.

These tactics can help make it more likely that when you sell after buying for the short term, the equity you recover will offset your costs.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. The article was revised from HOUSEOPEDIA’s original article.

Trees can be the best addition you’ll ever make to your yard, but choose wisely, plant carefully and don’t forget to prune.

When shopping, think about why you want trees. Is it for shade? For pretty color in spring or fall? To block out neighbors or noise? Your answer will help narrow your choices. Next, know your zone. You can find a map of plant hardiness zones on both Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada (AAFC) website and United States Department of Agriculture website. If buying from a local garden center, it should carry only specimens that do well in your climate, but it never hurts to double check. After all, trees are an expensive investment.

Fall foliage and more

For year-round color, consider both deciduous trees — such as oaks, elms, maples, birches and ginkgos — that provide gorgeous fall color before dropping their leaves, and evergreens, which as the name suggests will give you greenery all year long. And to enhance your beds, you really can’t go wrong with a Japanese maple. Varieties range in height from 3 feet to 20 feet tall at maturity and they offer rich colors and interesting shapes.

Shade trees

If it’s shade you need, start with some fast growers such as red maples or tulip trees (so named because their flowers resemble tulips). Both can grow more than two feet in a year. And then there are hybrid poplars, which can grow up to eight feet in one year. At the same time, you should also plant some slower-growing shade trees. They will live longer and develop deeper roots and stronger branches, meaning they are less likely to break in wind and snow storms. Slow-growing types can also be more drought resistant.

Deciduous trees will give you shade in summer and allow sunlight to filter through in winter. Evergreens will provide continuous shade. Plant deciduous trees with high, spreading branches on the south side of your home to shade your roof. Plant trees with branches lower to the ground on the west side and you’ll be shaded from the lower angle of the sun in the afternoon.

Of course, you’ll also want to consider the height and span of each tree at maturity, and its root system. For instance, poplars have deep roots, so don’t plant them too close to your house, sidewalk or, if you have one, septic tank.

Another consideration: utility lines. Pick a tree that won’t interfere with the lines. Good choices include crape myrtles, dogwoods and redbuds.

Wind resistant trees

In areas prone to hurricanes and strong storms, look for a variety that are wind resistant. The list includes live oaks, southern magnolias, bald cypresses and longleaf pines. Each has deep lateral and tap roots and strong trunks. Smaller trees that do well against the wind include dogwoods, Canadian & American hollies, yaupons and crape myrtles.

Other trees act as good windbreaks. Specimens to consider are Eastern red cedars, Chinese juniper and white pines. If planting trees as windbreaks, place them on the north and northwest sides of your home where it gets cold in the winter, and space them far enough apart to allow for growth.

When to plant

Always plant trees when they’re dormant — in the fall after they’ve dropped leaves or in early spring before they bud. Planting when the weather is cool lets the trees establish roots before spring rains and summer heat.

When to prune

If your trees bloom in summer, prune in winter when they are fully dormant. Prune spring-blooming trees immediately after they bloom. Never prune just for the sake of pruning. A good pruning is meant to remove dead branches, improve a tree’s shape, allow light and air to penetrate and to remove any branches that may pose a danger to your home.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.The article was revised from HOUSEOPEDIA’s original article.

The island has become a fundamental part of the modern kitchen, but size limitations mean some kitchens cannot accommodate one. When an island isn’t feasible, a peninsula can be a great alternative.

While peninsulas limit access to a kitchen as compared to islands that have circular flow, peninsulas can be attractive and functional. Floorplan variations are many, but here are few especially helpful layouts.

Parallel counters. This small kitchen has a peninsula directly across from and parallel to a wall full of cabinets, coming from one of the perpendicular walls. Across the peninsula counter from the sink are bar stools pulled up to the counter-bar.

The U-shaped kitchen. This kitchen has a long counter, cabinets and stove top along one wall, and another counter, sink and dishwasher on the opposite wall. The peninsula comes off of one end of either counter, creating a third side to the kitchen, partially enclosing it, but with an opening for access.

Seating at a peninsula. Peninsulas are a great place to serve food from the kitchen to satellite eating areas via the counter. Opposite the kitchen side of the peninsula counter is a common place to have bar stools for eating. You might even have a two-tiered counter and bar.

A big no-no. Resist the urge to add “floating” cabinets above a peninsula to solve storage problems in a small kitchen. While gaining cabinet space, you also create a closed-in feel to the kitchen.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.

GOOD HOUSEKEEPING

BY STACY GENOVESE AND BRIGITT EARLEY

Does your space feel a little... drab? Switching up your wall color in a trendy shade is the one of the quickest ways to rehab a tired space. And since it's a project most homeowners can tackle themselves, it's one of the most affordable, too.

But as easy as painting sounds, there are some tricks to the trade. Take prep work, for example. If you skip this important step, you could end up with a real problem on your hands — an undercoat that shows through or peeling paint. If you’re painting latex over oil, for example, you’ll likely get cracking, says Rachel Rothman, chief technologist and director of engineering at the Good Housekeeping Institute. These types of mistakes not only take time to remedy, but can also cost a significant amount of money if you have to hire a professional to fix your errors.

Don't fret, though: As long as you're using the right supplies and have a handle on the basics, you'll be painting like a pro in no time at all. Here, we'll break it all down for you, covering everything from supplies, to necessary prep, to rolling evenly, and even cleaning your brushes so you can move on to the next project on your list. Follow these tips for professional-looking results:

1. Make a plan.

Before you ever pick up a paint brush, you need a plan of attack. Think of it sort of like cooking: You want to read the recipe all the way through before you start blindly throwing ingredients into the pot, otherwise, you might get halfway through and realize you're missing an important component.

Look up: Does the ceiling need a refresh, too? What about the trim? Consider your options on the walls as well. Will you be using one color — or do you want to try painting with two colors (an accent wall, perhaps)?

2. Select the perfect color.

When it comes to paint shades, the options are boundless. It's a fortunate problem: While you'll inevitably find just what your'e looking for, landing on the right hue can be quite the process. To guide your search, start by thinking about what you ultimately want. Do you envision a warm or a cool shade? Does your space warrant a bold color, or would a neutral be more appropriate? Once you have a general idea of the direction you want to go in, you can begin sifting through paint chips.

But don't rely on the little square to make a final decision: Once on the wall, paint can look very different than it does on the sample card! Colors often look brighter once on the wall, and the light in your room can have a dramatic impact on the way the color reads. Pick a few finalists, then purchase sample cans.

3. Paint a sample swatch.

Once you have sample cans in hand, paint swatches on the wall. To give you a good idea of how the color will look in your space, paint two coats of color in a 12-inch-by-12-inch square. If your room has both sunny and shady spots, it's smart to put swatches in both areas, as this can affect the final look.

Alternatively, you can paint two coats onto a foam board (available at any craft or office supply store) and tape it to the wall. This is a great option for those who don't intend to get started right away, as you won't have to live with random color streaks on your walls.

Pro tip: Use an inexpensive foam brush for this type of sample painting. This way, you won't dirty a ton of brushes or waste money.

4. Calculate how much paint you need.

When determining how much paint to buy, many retailers have helpful calculators you can use. Always double check packaging, but in general, a gallon is roughly good for 250 to 400 square feet, says Rothman. And don't forget: You'll need a little extra for touch-ups and mistakes.

5. Gather the right materials.

Though the surface and size of what your painting will directly influence the exact list of supplies you need, it's a good idea to stock your toolkit with some combination of the following items:

• Painter's tape
• Drop cloths
• Paint brushes (both angled and straight)
• Paint roller
• Paint tray
• Stir stick
• Paint

Other worthy investments: An extension pole, so you can stash away the ladder after the edging step; a paint-can opener; and a pour spout to lessen mess.

6. Prep the room for painting.

• First, dry-dust the walls floor to ceiling and scrub any extra-grimy parts with a wet sponge or cloth; paint won't adhere as well to a dirty surface (think fingerprints, soot, dust, cobwebs). Let dry before you paint.

• Protect the floor and any furniture you can't (or don't want to) move, from paint splatters and spills. For the floor, choose fabric drop cloths instead of plastic ones, as plastic can be slick under your feet or, worse, the ladder.

• Remove outlet and light switch plates and tape around any areas you don't want painted (such as moldings, baseboards, or window frames) with painter's masking tape or Frog Tape. The Good Housekeeping Institute tried the latter on a smooth wall and found that it makes a crisp line and doesn't let paint bleed through.

7. Prime the wall (or don't with our handy trick).

A bit of a hinderance when you're trying to paint a room in one day: Painting over a dark wall with a light color (or covering stains) requires a coat of primer and two coats of paint — and at least six hours of drying time. (If you’re in a super humid room or painting the exterior on a humid day it will take a much longer, notes Rothman.)

That's why GHI recommends Benjamin Moore Aura, a self-priming paint (it's a cost-effective option if you were planning on buying primer). Going from light to light? You can get away with two coats of good-quality regular paint.

8. Mix the paint.

Though the store generally shakes the paint for you, a decent stir will ensure your paint is properly mixed. This is particularly important if the can has been sitting on a shelf for any length of time. Though an optional step, you can also strain the paint, says Rothman. "It’s easier to get rid of impurities from the paint can, rather than having them on your wall and having to fix it later."

9. Get rolling!

Now you're ready for the main event. If you're painting a room with two colors — stripes, for example — start with the lighter color first, says Rothman. Once it’s dry, run painter’s tape over the divider, then paint the darker color.

If you're painting a room one color, here's how with a roller and a brush, according to the pros:

• Use an angled brush or a sponge tool to "cut in," or paint a two-inch swath around the edges of woodwork and the ceiling. (Don't forget: These areas should be taped off, as explained in step five.)
• Grab your paint tray and a roller. Use 1/4-inch nap for smooth surfaces, 3/8-inch nap for semi-smooth, or 5/8-inch nap for rough — the wrong tool will apply too much or too little paint. If using a latex paint, pre-wet the roller first, says Rothman.
• Fill the well of the paint tray about ¼ of the way. Then, when loading the paint, roll the roller back and forth in the well until it is uniformly covered. Finally, move the roller back and forth in the upper portion to remove any excess.
• Fill in the central unpainted space using the roller. Paint the wall in overlapping W- or M-shaped strokes for the most even paint distribution.
• Let the first coat dry at least a couple of hours, then coat again. Between coats, cover the tray and brush with plastic wrap touching the paint surface, and refrigerate.

10. Finish and clean up.

• Rinse your paintbrush and roller (if you don't toss it) under a faucet until the water runs clear.
• Decant the tray's leftover paint back into the can; seal the can tightly by placing a paper towel over the lid and tapping the lid edges with a hammer. Rinse the tray.
• Once the brush's bristles are totally dry, slip the brush back into its original paper wrapper to keep the bristles from fanning out, or try this DIY fix: Fold a thick piece of paper around the bristles; tape to secure.
• Remove masking tape before you call it a night, pulling it off at a 45-degree angle to avoid tearing the finish.

It’s easy to go overboard when decorating kids’ rooms. It’s so tempting to go all-in with a theme of trucks or unicorns or a much-loved superhero. But what happens when the child moves on to a new favorite? Here’s how to indulge your child’s intense, but changing, interests without breaking the budget.

Color Schemes

Start with a neutral color scheme with one or two accent colors that you and your child agree on. Neutral colors also work best when selling, meaning one less room to repaint for staging purposes.

Form a Base

With your color scheme settled and walls painted, shop with your child to choose a comforter and window treatments. This will form a solid foundation for your kid’s room. If chosen in a neutral palette, these items can work with many different accent colors or themes. Investing in the larger, more costly items – instead of changing them every time – will save you money in the long run.

How to Personalize a Kids’ Rooms

Use sheets, bed skirt, throw blankets, and pillows in bright, contrasting colors — or favorite characters — to coordinate with the comforter and curtains. Bedside tables and desks can be painted to match the accent colors.

Artwork

Framing and hanging your child’s artwork is a great way to show off his or her personality and achieve a customized look. For the frames, choose one style or finish for consistency, allowing the artwork to take center stage.

Splurges

For larger ticket items, such as lighting and rugs, shop around to get the best prices, and try to balance style with practicality. Choose a lighting fixture that will coordinate with different décor styles. For rugs, keep to your neutral theme but perhaps add a pattern for interest.

Helping with Organization

Children need systems to keep their toys, games, books, and other belongings neat and organized. Bookcases with colorful baskets or bins help with easy clean-up and provide another place for your child to have a say in color, pattern, and style. Replacing baskets with a different look is inexpensive.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.